Photo gallery for Building a $5000 Car PC in TATA Safari

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Building a $5000 Car PC in TATA Safari

We are presenting here our $5000 Car PC project for your reference.

What is the necessity of a Computer inside a Car?

1. Live GPS Navigation System with Voice Guidance

2. Blu-Ray/DVD/Video Player with MP1/2, AVC, DIVX/XVID, FLV, VC1, WMV Playback support (up to 60fps/1080p)

3. Region Free High Definition Video playback upto 720p(1280 rescaled to 1024) & Dual Display (multi monitor) support

4. Lossless Audio Player with DTS-MA, TrueHD, Flac, MP3, AC3, AAC, WMA decoding support (Lossless LPCM upto 24 bit/192KHz)

5. True Surround Sound delivery thru selectable 4.0/5.1/7.1 channels with LFE & Bass Management

6. Stereo to Surround Upmix thru ProLogic II, Neo or SRS

7. Bluetooth Phone Control with Caller ID and SMS Display

8. Live Email & Internet browsing thru WI-FI/EVDO/GPRS/3G

9. Satellite TV Tuner with DVB receivers

10. FM/Satellite Radio with USB Tuners

11. OBD Diagnosis and Live engine tachometer

12. Continuous Live buffered video recording thru USB webcam

13. IR Reverse Camera Display

14. Computer Games for rear passengers

15. Software controlled Active Crossover, Frequency based Time Alignment, Acoustic Correction, Phase Control and other real time DSP effects if demanded by ears.

16. Mass amount of Audio/Video/Data storage capacity with Play lists support

OK, Why the hell you need a TATA Safari for a Car PC?

No, You don't need a Safari or Endeavor to build a Car PC. Any car with a 12v battery is capable to run a car computer.

But Safari has some added advantages for a Car PC setup like more Boot space, better suspensions, good surround sound stage, more ground clearance, free air flow, 135 Amp alternator etc. If you have a SUV like Safari, you are not limited by Space and Power Requirement and you never need to search for a Mini-itx board/cabinet with atom processor.

And why do we need $5000 for a Car PC:

No, You can build a Car PC for $500 too. But if you want to experience the power of Blu-Ray, Independent Displays, TrueHD and DTS-MA, then you may need around $5000.

Whats the necessity of a Blu-Ray Player in car than my MP3 Head unit/Car DVD Player?

No, You don't need a Blu-Ray Player in car to listen to high-fidelity lossless Audio. A $20 computer DVD Player will play lossless DVD-Audios upto 24bit at 192Khz sampling rate where your Car CD/DVD head unit can't go beyond 48Khz. But you may also consider to install a Blu-ray player in your car if your rear passengers like to watch movies with 5.1/7.1 True HD/DTS-MA audio at 24/96Khz.

Oh, What's the advantages of 24/192khz or 24/96khz sound than my original 16/44.1Khz Audio CD?

1. A Human can hear upto 20Khz for around 132dB, but he can feel upto 23Khz and 140dB. So to convert a 20Khz signal in Digital - 44.1KHz uses 2 Samples/Points (44.1/20=2) and 96Khz uses 4 points and 192Khz sampling rate uses 9 points to plot the 20Khz cycle.

Its like how many points you need to draw a pure circle(at a pre-defined radius) using hand. You can draw a circle with 2 points, but it wont be a perfect circle and it creates aliasing. If you uses 96Khz, you will get almost a good circle with 4 points and at 192Khz your circle will be perfect. So 96Khz/192Khz audio don't affected by Aliasing effects or Anti-aliasing filters. Also remember, Aliasing not only occurs at/above 20KHz, it exists as audible artifacts in the lower frequencies too.

2. All converters have to issue a pulse for each clock cycle. That pulse, while very quiet, disturbs the waveform in ways that are not necessarily musical or desirable (noise). 192KHz allows that pulse to be moved way up above the audio spectrum to get most of the noise out of the way.

3. One place where 96/192 really makes a difference is with Audio transients. The lower the sample rate, the more distorted the transients, because the slower sample rates don't react quickly enough to accurately represent very short-lived events. Since higher frequencies have shorter lives, this transient response is more noticeable at higher frequencies. With Higher sampling rate you wont face the transient clippings as with CD Audio.

4. Increasing the Sampling rate will automatically reduce the latency of your sound card.

5. A higher sampling rate also allows a greater bandwidth, less quantization errors and flatband frequency response in analog domain.

6. And the bit-depth/resolution plays a major role in deciding the Dynamic Range and frequency spectrum. For example, you can achieve upto 90dB spectrum using a 16bit source, but a 24-bit digital audio has a theoretical dynamic range of 144 dB and you can achieve 120dB spectrum in practical.

7. And finally with the availability of DVD-Audio and Blu-Ray, we have ended a great AUDIO WAR with uncompressed lossless 24/96 or 24/192 music with high bitrate, more headroom, pure spectrum and clear harmonics.

Fine, And why do we need to buy software for music tuning when we have dedicated hardware like Alpine 650/701?

No, you don't need to buy any software for tuning. Using only the free VST Plugins, you can achieve better sound quality than a dedicated analog unit or poor DSPs like 650/700/701. (Yes, there are good external DSP units available which will process your Audio at 24/96Khz, but they are not cheap!)

Pure Digital processing is always superior than any high end analog processor for cross-over, EQ and time alignment. Analog processors are known to create problems like phase delay, group delay, time delay, phase distortions, harmonic/response distortion, intermodule distortion, crosstalk and self-noise. They are limited by the SINAD, THD, transient response and frequency response of each devices in the chain. Digital processing also has its own problems like latency, accuracy, noise, clipping, errors and jitters - but they are all controllable now with more bandwidth, linear phase & floating point algorithms and high processing power.

Also remember, MP3 plays at a maximum of 320kbps while your car CD plays at 1.4Mbps, AC3 plays at 640Kbps, DTS plays at 1.5Mbps, Dolby TrueHD goes upto 18 Mbps(CBR), DTS-MA plays upto 24.5 Mbit(VBR) and Flac/LPCM/MLP are limited by the hardware throughput.

So Remember:

CD has lossless 16 bit, sampled at 44.1Khz with 1.4Mbps bitrate
DVD has lossy 24 bit, sampled at 48Khz with 640kbps or 1.5Mbps
DVD-Audio has lossless 24 bit, sampled at 96Khz/192Khz with 13.8Mbps (Yes, I know - but possible via MLP!)
Blu-ray has lossless 24 bit, sampled at 96Khz/192Khz with 18Mbps bitrate

For your reference:

Human can hear around 20Khz and he can feel transients upto 23Khz. Also human hearing is sensitive around 22 bit/132dB SPL, but he can feel upto 140dB

Only Wav(LPCM), Flac, DTS-MA and MLP/TrueHD are lossless while DTS, DTS-HD, AAC, Dolby Digital & DD+ are lossy formats like MP3.

You don't need a PAP enabled sound card to enjoy the full benefit of 24/192 TrueHD/DTS-MA in car. The Multichannel Analog audio out of any true 24/192 DAC will deliver the full quality of Blu-Ray without any downsampling thru some little effort of reverse engineering the software decoder. (If you cant afford the HDAV Daughter board, you can still enjoy the full quality of 24/192 by Ripping or Remuxing or with the upcoming Slyplayer)

And note that there is no difference between the quality of the Audio in DVD-Audio and Blu-ray except that the Blu-Ray can have upto 7.1 channels with Video, but in DVD-A its upto 5.1 surround only. So do not invest on a Car Blu-ray player, only to listen Lossless Audio. (18Mbps is the maximum bitrate for 7.1 and 13.8 is the top limit for 5.1 Audio at 24/96 and both uses the same MLP algorithm. At 24/192, the deadline is 9.2Mbps)

Also remember, the quality of the Audio in DVD-A or Blu-Ray is 10 times greater than the Music in CD/DVD. If you still believe that your lossless CDs have good music, then you may be very old or you may need an ENT checkup.

Fine, What are the pre-requirements to get a PC inside the car

1. You should buy a 12v DC-DC Power Supply unit with startup/shutdown controller as your home SMPS is not designed for a car environment.

2. Your car may need to have enough protection against direct sunlight with good Sun control films and Air-conditioners. Or you may need to live with some extra noisy Fans or a water cooled system.

3. You may need to invest to buy good Speaker Components and Amplifiers. A PC in a car without good ICE is almost useless.

4. The suspension system of your car should be in good condition and you can not Rash drive your car as before.

5. You may also need to buy a small 12v TFT monitor, preferably a VGA touchscreen. If you don't have Dark sun control films installed, you may also need to invest $500 for a transflective touchscreen monitor.

6. Other than that you may interested to buy a Laptop Hard Disk, GPS Unit, Wi-FI/3G, Bluetooth Dongle, OBD Scanner, powered USB Hub and a light-sensitive Webcam/Eyetoy.

7. You should also need to spend money on Software components like OS, Players and Road Maps.

8. You can't use your Home PC wires inside the car. You should have to buy some thick heavy power cables and shielded data cables.

Our selected components for the Car PC:

Cabinet: Zebronics Pro CUBE
Price: Rs. 2000-2500


Why this: It’s heavy, has Perpendicular HDD Mount, Room for Power-supply board, Micro ATX and 6.5 kg weight
Note: You may need to replace the pre-installed fans with some Low DBA Fans.

PSU: OPUS 360W Automotive DC-DC
Price: Rs. 10000-15000


Why this: It has +12v out with modular connectors and very stable than the competitors

Motherboard: Gigabyte EG31MF-S2
Price: Rs. 2500-3200


Why this: Its Micro ATX and has Advanced DES which saves upto 70% power

CPU: Intel E7300
Price: Rs. 5500-6000


Why this: It’s the cheap 45nm Core 2 Duo proc with Speedstep technology

RAM: Corsair XMS2 2GB DDR2 800Mhz
Price: Rs. 1100-1500


Why this: It cheap now. (Note: You don't need 2GB if you are in hibernate business)

Graphics: XFX 7600 GT DDR3
Price: Rs. 2500-5500


Why this: It consumes only 35w at load and has native full screen overlay

Sound: Asus Xonar DX
Price: Rs. 3500-4500


Why this: It has 4.0 Dolby UPMIX and Crossover with channel routing

HDD: Seagate 2.5” Momentus 7200.4 500 GB
Price: Rs. 6500-7500
Why this: It’s the fastest 2.5" now and handle 350/1000Gs shock

Drive: 22x DVD Writer
Price: Rs. 1000-1200
Why this: LG/Samsung writer is easily available everywhere.

Monitor: 10.4” Touchscreen TFT Panel
Price: Rs. 10000-15000
Why this: Samsung LCD Panel, better than liliput units

TV Out: 2*7 inch widescreen TFT Monitor
Price: Rs. 5000-8000
Why this: Philips TFT panel, better color reproduction than Necvox

Webcam: 3MP CCD USB Camera
Price: Rs. 3000-4000
Why this: Real CCD sensor, Auto brightness and white balance control works at direct sunlight
Note: If you cant afford a AWB enabled CCD webcam you can use a PS2/PS3 Eyetoy as a webcam in car

Microphone: USB Soundcard with Noise Cancellation Clip On Microphone
Price: Rs. 0
Why this: Comes free with the Webcam

IR: PC Media Remote Controller
Price: Rs. 500-800
Why this: It’s 27 MHz, cheap and don’t interfere with 2.4G. Good for media control
Note: We recommend you a Media control Remote with trackball mouse

Bluetooth: USB Bluetooth 2.0 Dongle
Price: Rs. 150-200
Why this: It’s cheaper than 2.1 and better than 1.2

GPS: MTK2 Bluetooth+USB Nano GPS
Price: Rs. 4000-5000
Why this: Fits in the car Keychain, 66 channels, 5 Hz, A-GPS, USB+Bluetooth, better than SiRF III

Wi-Fi: Belkin 802.11G USB Wi-Fi Adapter
Price: Rs. 800-1000
Why this: It has 100-200ft range and cheaper than N.

KB and Mouse: Adesso 2.4G wireless Keyboard with TouchPad
Price: Rs. 4000-5000
Why this: Good wireless range, has Touch Pad instead of the crappy trackball.

TV Tuner: DVB-T Digital TV Tuner HDTV USB Stick (Note: DVB-T signal is only available in Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai)
Price: Rs. 500-1000
Why this: Because India has some free DVB-T channels. DTH is not cheap now.

USB Hub: 12v-Powered Ultra USB Hub
Price: Rs. 1500 - 2000
Why this: because it can be powered by the car cigarette lighter adapter

Card Reader: USB 2.0 All in one Card Reader
Price: Rs. 0
Why this: It comes inbuilt with the USB Hub

IR Camera: 12V CCD IR Night Vision Reverse Camera
Price: Rs. 4000-6000
Why this: Real Sony CCD, works at sunlight and moonlight with 0.1 lux IR Sensors.

Software Components:

Operating System: Windows XP Pro SP3
Why this: Its faster(after tuned up) and stable than the Vista.

Front End: CentraFuse 2.1
Why this: One touch, Inbuilt Bluesoleil Phone Control, reliable than RR

Webcam: H.264 Webcam Deluxe
Why this: Controlled Motion tracking with automatic buffer based recording

Media player: BS Player Pro
Why this: Multiscreen, Low CPU Usage, Desktop mode which plays videos under the desktop

Audio player: Foobar2000
Why this: Real support for 24bit/192Khz FLAC files

OnScreen Keyboard: Comfort
Why this: Touchscreen friendly and lot better than windows keyboard

Navigation: Satguide One India Map
Why this: You have no other choice in India to work with Centrafuse / Destinator
Note: We recommend you Garmin with City Navigator India 2009 NT Q4 Maps instead of Satguide

Cross Over: Audiomulch with Allocator
Why this: Works better with multichannel Asus ASIO and compatible with VAC

Time Alignment: Voxengo products
Why this: Voxengo Delay and Phase control products are cheap and works fine with Audiomulch

Acoustic Correction: ARC and RTA with external studio quality condenser Mic & preamp
Why this: ARC uses the same algorithm as in Alpine 650 and it works better than 650 inside the car.

ICE / Audio Components:

4 Channel Amplifier: JBL GTO 1004 600W 4-channel amplifier

Mono Amplifier: JBL GTO 75.4 II 520W 4-channel amplifier (In Bridged mode instead of a Mono Amp)

SubWoofer: JBL GT5–12 1100W 12" Subwoofer

Front Speakers: Illusion Electra 6.1 Component Speakers

Rear Speakers: JBL 607c Component Speakers

Power Cables: Uninyvin Fibreglass Cables

Speaker Cables: Illusion Electra Reference Series cables

RCA Interconnects: Monster 401 XLN Xtreme

PC Adapters: Monster iCableLink

PC Interconnects: MX Stereo to RCA Interconnects

Audio & Video Decoders:

H.264: Core AVC
AAC: Nero
VC-1 Mainconcept
MPEG1: Gabest
MPEG2: Elecard HD
AC3/DTS: AC3 Filter
DTS-MA: Sonic
Dolby TrueHD:Nero
DIVX/XVID: Divx 7 Pro

The Tools used for the installation:

Here are the Tools and products we have used for the installation:

1. Scissors

2. Screwdrivers

3. Crimper

4. Cutting Plier

5. Wire cutters

6. Hand Saw

7. Cutting Blade

8. Tilted Tip Knife

9. X-ACTO Knife Set

10. Diamond Files Set

11. Heat Resistant Tapes

12. 3M Automotive Double sided Tape

13. 3M Automotive Duct Tape

14. Insulation Tapes

15. Adhesives

16. Allen Keys Set

17. Precision Electronics Tool Box

18. Heat Shrink Tubing

19. Fiberglass Wire sleeves

20. Tags

21. Self Adhesive Velcro Tapes

22. 3M Dual Lock Fastener

23. Voltage Tester

24. AutoRange Multimeter

25. Soldering station

26. Driver Tool Box

Connectors & Switches:

Tsunami M-ANL Fused 3*4 Gauge to 4*8 gauge Distribution Block

Inline 150A ANL Fuse Box

Anderson Power Pole 45A Male-Female Combo connectors

MX Speakon Male-Female Combo connector

MX XLR Male-Female Combo connector

5 Amp SPDT toggle switch

2 Amp SPST ON/OFF Switch

PC Reset & LED Panel

CAT-5 Female to Female adapter

Spade Terminals, Fuses, Crimp connectors, Sleeves, Banana Connectors, Ring Terminals etc.

Cables:

4 GA Fiberglass Uninyvin Cable – 6 meter (Warning: You must need at least 2 Gauge wire for this setup if you are using PVC cables)

6 GA Fiberglass Uninyvin Cable – 3 meter

8 GA Fiberglass Uninyvin Cable– 3 meters

11 GA Fiberglass Uninyvin Cable – 3 meter (Warning: You must need at least 10 Gauge wire for this setup if you are using PVC cables)

12 GA Finolex wire - 2 meter

14 GA Finolex wire – 10 meters

17 GA Finolex wire – 10 meters

5 Meter QVS Tri-shield Ultra Slim VGA Extension cable

3 Meter MONSTER 401 XLN XTREME Audio Interconnect Cable

2 * MONSTER iCableLink

5 Meter Dlink CAT-5e+ cable

5 Meter Belkin Active USB Cable

1 Meter Right Angle USB Extension Cable

2 * 1.5 Meter MX RCA Male to RCA Male cable

1 * 1 Meter NAX RCA Male to RCA Male cable

2 * 2 Meter MX Stereo to 2 RCA Male cable, MX Part No: 1111

6 Meter MX Dual RCA to RCA cable

MX stereo to Dual RCA Female Adapter

The setup Process:

This is the Power Diagram for the PC Setup:

Here are the wires used to POWER UP the entire setup:

1. This is the 4 Gauge Uninyvin fibreglass cable which connects the distribution box and battery thru the 150a fuse block.

2. This 6 Gauge fibreglass cable used to power up and ground the 4 Channel amplifier.

3. This wire is now replaced by 8 GA Fibreglass cable to power up the JBL 75.4 Amp.

4. This 17 Gauge wire is used to power up the Rear LCD monitors.

5. This set has 4 wires. One end of a wire(In Fig: 5A) connects to the Touchscreen monitor and the other end connects to ground (5B) and the positive(5C) goes to a SPDT Switch(5E). The left connector of the SPDT switch(5D) goes to the Acc. +12V of the ignition switch. The right connector of the SPDT (5F) goes to the regulated +12v out of the PSU

6. Cigar lighter charger for GPS Unit

7. 5V Cigar lighter adapter for USB Hub

8. 75W DC-AC Power Inverter

9. 150w DC-AC Power Inverter

10. Distribution Block

11. 150A Fuse Block

12. Spade Connectors

13. 45A Anderson Connectors

14. Remote Power On connector cable for Amplifiers

15. This set has 3 wires. One female connector has the regulated +12v out from the PSU which will fit into 5F. The others are two remote power on for the amplifiers.

16. The uninyvin power cable for the computer. One End connects to the PSU and its has a pair of 45A Anderson male-female connectors(Fig: 16A), so that we can easily remove the PC from the car when needed. The other end goes to chassis ground(Fig: 16B) and the positive goes to the distribution block.

17. This cable is used to power the +12V Video booster. It has an in line fuse holder(Fig: 17A) with 1 amp fuse.

18. This fused cable connects the Rear LCD Monitors.

19. This 12 GA wire connects the back panel of the computer case to Car chassis ground to avoid any Ground Loop.

20. 17 Gauge wire used for grounding the Rear Monitors and Video Booster.

21. The Ring connector of this 4 Gauge wire goes to the Battery and the other end connects the 150 Amp Fuse Holder.

This is the Data Flow Diagram for the PC Setup:

Here are the wires used to route the data throughout the setup:

1. USB extension cable for Web camera.

2. Connects the Front channel Audio out of the sound card(now thru Monster iCableLink) to the 4 channel Amp.

3. Connects the Front channel Audio out of the sound card(now thru Monster iCableLink) to the 4 channel Amp.

4. Connects the Line out from the CD/FM Player to Computer Audio In (thru cable 6). (This MX cable is now replaced by 6 meter Scosche RCA Interconnect cable)

5. USB to Mini-USB Cable for GPS G-Mouse connectivity (can also be used to recharge the Finger mouse)

6. Connects the output of the CD/FM Player to the Computer Line In.

7. Coaxial Slim VGA Extension cable (This cable is now replaced by Low Profile Back Angle Tri-Shielded VGA Extension Cable)

8. This setup has the SPST Power On, Reset Switch, HDD and Power LEDs. We replaced the momentary switch of the Power button to SPST ON/OFF. All the wires are soldered to a 5 meter Cat 5e+ cable.

9. This is the motherboard connector for the front panel switches and LEDs. One end has the female CAT 5 Adapter and the other end connects to the motherboard's RESET, Power LED and HDD LED. The SPST end goes to the PSU Power On (9A) - Because the motherboard's Power switch is controlled by the PSU. So even if the car is started - the computer will not turn on automatically if the SPST switch is OFF.

10. This is an Active USB 5 Meter cable.

11. These MX cables connects the outputs of the video booster to rear monitors.

12. This yellow wire connects one end of the SPST switch (Computer Power switch) to the +!2v Acc. on of Ignition. (The other end goes to the PSU ON thru a CAT5 Cable)

13. This cables connect the TV Out from the graphics card to the Video booster.

14. This cable connects the Line out of the 4 Channel amp to the Line In of the Mono Amp for derived 4.1 surround. (This MX cable is now replaced by Monster 401 XLN Xtreme cable)

*UPDATE: Some of the Cables in the above picture have been replaced with the following "after installation":

1. MONSTER 401 XLN RCA 3 meter Interconnect Cable - 0.2 Ohm (Instead of 0.4Ohm 2 meter MX RCA Cable- Marked as '14' in the first cable picture)

2. Scosche RCA Interconnect cable - 6 meter (Instead of 5 meter MX RCA Cable- Marked as '4' in the first photo)

3. Right Angle USB Extension Cable - To connect the Monitor Touchscreen to USB Hub

4. Low profile Back Angle Untra Slim Tri-shielded VGA Extension Cable (Replacement for Old No: 7)

5. NAX 1 meter RCA to RCA - 0.1 Ohm (Instead of 0.6 Ohm 3 meter MX Cable - Marked as '13' in the first photo)

6. 2 * MX DIGITAL Stereo to RCA Cable, Part No: 1111 - 0.3 Ohm (Instead of 0.4 Ohm old model MX Stereo to RCA Cable - - Marked as '2' and '3' in the first photo)

7. 2 * MONSTER iCableLink Stereo Adapter - 0.1 ohm (This is necessary for the new MX 1111 Cables, as they wont fit the Asus Xonar DX)

8. MX Speakon Male Female Combo (To be installed in the subwoofer box)

9. Illusion Audio Speaker cables for front Components (Rear and Sub are connected using MX OFC Speaker cables)

Here are the USB devices:

1. Belkin 802.11 G USB Adapter

2. GPS Windshield Stand

3. The Qstarz Keychain GPS Unit

4. 2.4G Received for the Finger Mouse

5. Corsair USB Drive

6. Bluetooth 2.0 Dongle

7. 2.4G Receiver for the TouchPad Keyboard

8. IR Receiver for the Media Remote Controller

9. The Finger Mouse

10. USB Hub with Card Reader

11. 7 - Port USB Hub

12. Video Booster

13. PC Remote Control

14. 3.0 MP CCD Webcam

15. USB Sound Card with Clip Mic

16. DVB-T TV Tuner with Remote and Antenna

Here are the components inside the PC:

1. Power cable for front 120MM fan

2. Cable RESET & LED

3. SATA Data cable

4. DVD Drive IDE Cable

5. Floppy power connector for Xonar DX

6. Motherboard Power Switch connector

7. PSU Ground cable

8. Power cable for Rear panel 80mm fans

9. Ground cable for Xonar DX

10. Front panel USB

11. 24 Pin motherboard connector

The Top Panel:

1. SATA Power Cable for HDD

2. SATA Data cable

3. Molex Power connector for DVD Drive

4. IDE Data cable for DVD Drive

5. PSU to Motherboard connectors (24 pin + 4 pin + molex)

6. Connector for Fans & Floppy

7. Motherboard Power switch to PSU

8. Molex to +12v out with ground

9. RESET & LED to CAT-5 Adapter. Also Acc. On to PSU

10. PSU +12V Input and Ground output from PSU, Sound Card and case.

11. XLR connector for Remote Amp on and regulated +12v from PSU.

And here are the new I/O Panel setup for the Car PC:

1. XLR Female Plug

2. CAT-5 Female Adapter

3. Molex +12v HDD/Fan Plug

4. Anderson Power connectors

5. 2 * Crimp Connectors

And here is the I/O Panel with cables connected:

1. XLR Cable

2. Remote Amp on Cables

3. Regulated +12v output goes to the touchscreen monitor (3B) through a DPDT Switch (3A).

4. CAT-5 Cable

5. Power On, Reset and LED Panel

6. +12V Output from a Molex Pin to power Video Booster and Rear LCD Monitors. 6A is the TV-Out from the graphics card

7. Power cable for Video booster

8. Output from the Video Booster

9. Input to the Video booster (same cable in 6A)

10. Power and Video cables for the Rear LCD Monitors

11. Power Input cable for the computer

12. This yellow cable connects the computer case to the car chassis

Now the system with input output devices is ready now to be installed in the car

The installation Process:

Dashboard Panel is removed for USB Hub and VGA & USB cables are inserted thru the vent:

Rear camera RCA Cables are attached:

Installing Component Speakers in Front Door:

Flush Mounted Tweeters:

Front Door after installation:

Installing Component Speakers in Rear Doors:

The distribution Block under the boot seat:

Connecting the PC cables:

The Video Booster behind the PC:

Installing the Monitors:

The PC Power, Reset & LED Panel:

The USB Hub:

The USB Camera and GPS:

DVB-T Antenna:

Wiring the Subwoofer Amp:

Wiring the 4 channel Amp:

Securing the PC Wires:

PC is velcroed perfectly to handle the shakes:

The keyboard:

Everything is fitted perfectly now:

The Full Car:

Centrafuse is in Action:

The Navigator:

Feel free to submit your feedback.

And finally, How much it costs us:

Computer Hardware Components, Monitors, Cameras, Cables & Adapters: INR. 95,000 (Including Import Duty, Freight & Taxes)

Speaker Components & Amplifiers: INR. 40,000

Computer Software - INR. 80,000 (Including Centrafuse, Satguide, CoreAVC, Mainconcept, Elecard, Allocator, Comfort, BS Player, Audiomulch & other VST Plugin)

RTA & Acoustic Correction - INR. 70,000 (Including ARC with Microphone, RTA Software, AKG condenser microphone and Preamp)

Total: INR. 3,00,000 (Including installation & Damping)

Planned future Updates:

1. Monster 400 series Stereo to RCA Interconnects (Installed)
2. A Slim Shock-Proof External Blu-Ray player (Ordered)
3. A High performance DVC(Independent) SubWoofer (Received)
4. PC Media Control Remote with Trackball (Ordered)

Note: High quality pictures are available below, also feel free to post your comments.

Average: 4.2 (13 votes)

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